A Quadrafire Millenium 2100 Woodstove
Alright; It has become well known that I’ve a lot of time on my hands. Apparently, too well known. A friend asked if I’d help him install a wood stove in his house. Of course since I like to do new things, I said sure.
He was looking for something to provide supplimental heat to his enormous Kitchen. Well, honestly, his Wife decided that the Kitchen required more heat and, stated her case firmly enough to convince my buddy. Something about, “She hoped his pot-belly could truly carry him through Winter ’cause she was done cooking in there without heat.” seemed to kick-start the project.
OK. Step one in this project is to determine which wood-stove will meet the heating need.
The Kitchen measures 25ft X 25ft, that’s 625 square feet of space. Not a whole lot of room but It’s also a Kitchen with a ceramic tile floor. The floor will act as a thermal mass. This means that it will tend to remain at a constant temperature. For instance; If the room is cool say, 58°F, the floor would assume that temperature over time and then seek to remain at 58°F when the room warmed, to say 74°F. Eventually, the floor would warm up to the ambient room temperature, and then seek to stay at that temperature even though the room may cool down. Sort of like a battery can be charged and then discharged.
All of that means, essentially, The room will require more than the usual amount of heat to fill up that Thermal Mass in the floor. Now, Knowing all of that, I started looking for the right stove. The smallest quality stove I could find was the Quadrafire Millenium 2100.
According to the Quadrafire Website at www.Quardrafire.com:
The Millennium 2100 delivers powerful performance in a compact package. Automatic Combustion Control (ACC) provides advanced heating control for long, clean and efficient burns. Rugged construction continues the Quadra-Fire Tradition of Excellence.
- 40,800 BTUs—Heats up to 2,100 square feet
- 1.5 cu. ft. firebox capacity / 16″ maximum log length
- Up to 9 hours of burn time from each load of wood
- Easy start-up
40,000 BTU’s!!! He’s going to be able to heat most of his house with this stove! After some deliberation, my buddy gave the green light and I picked up the Stove from the Dealer and headed over to Lowes for the Chimney parts and the stove pipe.
The Chimney & Stove Pipe
We decided that the chimney was going to be “Class-A” Pipe. Class-A pipe is an insulated flue-pipe encased by a stainless steel outer pipe. It can be mounted with as little as 2″ clearance to a combustible. Clearance to combustibles is the name of the game when installing anything that will contain a fire or vent a fire!
A quick look at the ceiling of the proposed area and we knew we needed a cathedral ceiling support setup. This differs from a flat ceiling in that, a flat ceiling uses a simpler band connection and the Cathedral ceiling would not allow this due to the angled ceiling. Fortunately, there is a Cathedral ceiling Kit available. Unfortunately it is special order only, and I wanted it now!!!! I had to pull each part off the shelf separately, thankfully every part was in stock.
Here’s a diagram of the installation:
You cut a square in the ceiling and frame it out to make a box. Then you cut the hole through the roof. This is the most daunting step. You need to get past the fear of cutting a hole in the house. It seems to help when its not YOUR house!
A look at the cut-out for the ceiling Support Box:
The ceiling Support Box is then placed in the hole so that one side of the box is flush with the roofing and the other side protrudes above the roofing. You will need to trim this bit off, flush with the roofing. A pair of aviation or tin snips works well here.
Next, You mount the first section of Class-A chimney into the ceiling Support Box. The Support Band is attached to the Chimney Pipe which then allows the pipe to rest inside the ceiling Support Box.
Now, You attach the Stove Pipe Adapter to the portion of the Chimney that protrudes into the room.
Here is the ceiling Support Box, Chimney Pipe, Flue Adapter, and Stove Pipe completed:
Up on the Roof, You need to use roof cement to seal the Ventilated Flashing to the roof, nail it down every 4″ or so around it’s perimeter, and liberally coat the edges with roof cement. Assemble the Storm Collar and set it in place with a screw to keep it from flying around in the wind and the Flashing is done.
Now, you need to figure out how high from the roofing you need to be and also, how high above the surroundings you need to be:
In our case, we needed 5 more feet of Chimney to achieve these requirements. One 3 foot section was installed just above the Ventilated Flashing by inserting the chimney pipe into the other and twisting them. These Pipes are designed to twist-lock together. A band with a screw to tighten the band down is then placed around the joint and tightened. This is really just extra protection but for $6 extra per joint it is cheap fire insurance! The last section of Chimney outside was to be a 2 foot section. On top of this final section a Rain Cap is attached by a locking band, similar to the Support Band, which clamps the Rain Cap on securely.
Here is how this looks outside:
The last task for the Chimney is to assemble the Stove Pipe. The Stove pipe that we used here is Single-Wall 24Guage Black. It is less expensive than Double-Wall and requires greater clearances to combustibles but it seemed to be the way to go here. Single-Wall was only available locally in 24″ sections that needed to be snapped together into a tube, a seam runs the length of the section. The important thing to remember here is that the crimped end ALWAYS points to the stove! This way, any water that might enter the Chimney goes all the way to the stove and doesn’t leak down the pipe and end up all over the floor! Almost never an issue but better to do it right………
Well, There’s Part 1 of the Article. In Part 2: We continue with the Stove Placement, Final Connections, The Burning, and Dealing with Ashes.
Hope you enjoyed this as much as I did.